Day 5 - 5th August 2018:
For our final day in Java, Boas had organised to take us out to Jakarta Bay to look for Frigatebirds. Our flight was in the afternoon, so we plan to get to Jakarta early as to avoid the Sunday traffic pouring into Gunung Gede! We woke up at 4am (Henry woke Captain and Boas up thinking it was already 4am, but it was ACTUALLY 4am HK time...) and half an hour later we were already on our way towards Jakarta, it was still dark but the road was clear. What took us over three hours on our first day only took us less than an hour and a half!
We stopped at a Burger King for breakfast, at the car park we heard calls of the Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker. It soon got brighter and traffic became heavier, our cars continued further north towards the coast. It was 8:30am by the time we reached our destination. We added Pink-necked Green Pigeon onto our trip list and boarded one of the small boat and off we went!
Pink-necked Green Pigeon - female
Our boat went past many fishing huts made out of bamboo. Large flocks of Little Black Cormorants were seen along the way, they were by far the most common species in the bay.
Bamboo fishing huts
Flocks of Little Black Cormorants
A few small swifts zipped past us, they were certainly not Cave Swiftlets, but most likely to be Edible-nest Swiftlets. While a Greater crested Tern drifted past our boat.
Edible-nest Swiftlet
Greater Crested Tern
It didn't take long before our boat arrived at the Frigatebird roost. Little Black Cormorants were abundant here as well, drying their wings on the bamboo structures. While Little Egrets also fish in the area.
The frigatebirds and cormorants roost
Little Black Cormorant
Little Egret
It took us a while to sort out the species, as three species of Frigatebirds are found here at Jakarta Bay. The main focus was Christmas Frigatebirds, which were the most common one in the bay but actually globally the rarest, due to it's restricted breeding range on Christmas Island and have a small population, they are listed as critically endangered. We had at least 50 birds at the roost, which gave us a good chance to figure out some key diagnostic features. Christmas Frigatebirds length are measured at between 90 - 100cm, they are amongst the larger Frigatebirds in the region. They have very strong bills, and I noticed most of them had a bulky 'hunched shoulder' look to them when at rest, probably because their wings are so long that when they are folded which gives them that look.
Christmas Frigatebird - male
Christmas Frigatebird - female
Christmas Frigatebird - juvenile
Lesser Frigatebirds were amongst the second most abundant species at the roost. Males are fairly straight forward to pick out even amongst the Christmas Frigatebirds, as they do not have pale patch on their marginal coverts, making them look all black. Females are pink billed and pattern look similar to Christmas Frigatebirds when at rest, although they are more delicate looking with shorter and thinner bill, eye-rings are also a brighter red. Juvenile birds are smaller and slimmer than Christmas Frigatebirds of similar age, their bills are bluish instead of pinkish.
Lesser Frigatebird - male
Lesser Frigatebird - female
Lesser Frigatebird - juvenile
We only saw a single male Great Frigatebird, to tell apart a male Great with a male Christmas while at roost is no easy matter, this individual certainly does not look as robust as the Christmas, primary projection also look shorter in comparison, although this could but an individual variation...my sample size is too small to make this conclusion. Everything became clear once it flaps its wings or take to the air, it is nearly all black.
Great Frigatebird - male, with all black underside and no axillary spurs
In comparison, white belly patch is very obvious for male Christmas Frigatebird during flight, with no axillary spurs, shoulder patch on marginal coverts also very apparent.
Christmas Frigatebird - male, with white lower belly and no axillary spurs
Lesser Frigatebird male have dark bellies and white axillary spurs, their smaller size also make them quite obvious, marginal coverts also lack any pale feathers, therefore making them look darker than other frigatebirds in the field.
Lesser Frigatebird - male, with black belly and white axillary spurs
Female Christmas Frigatebirds during flight looks very white on the underside, the collar, breast, belly to vent are all white, wtih obvious axillary spurs. The collar can be clearly seen when seen from above. Bill is very pink.
Christmas Frigatebird - female, with white collar, belly, vent and axillary spurs
I didn't manage a lot of photos of Lesser Frigatebirds female inflight, this was the only decent shot I took, note the lower belly is black and bright patch on the marginal coverts are not as pale when compared with Christmas Frigatebirds.
Lesser Frigatebird - female, white collar, white breast and axillary spurs, black belly
Here are a comparison of what I believe to be two 2nd year birds (Could be wrong, I have very little field experiences with Frigatebirds!), first a Christmas Frigatebird the second a Lesser Frigatebird. Christmas Island certainly have much broader wings, completely white breast, belly to vent and white axillary spurs. While the Lesser Frigate have mottled breast and white belly with obvious axillary spurs.
Christmas Frigatebird - presume 2nd year bird, much the same pattern as female but mottled patterns on head
Lesser Frigatebird - presume 2nd year bird, black breast band, white belly and axillary spurs, buffish head with bluish bill
And here's a comparison between the axillary spurs of male adult Lesser Frigatebird to the same 2nd year bird, note that bill changes colours quite drastically!
Lesser Frigatebird - male
Lesser Frigatebird - 2nd year bird
And this one I believe is a 4th year male Christmas Frigatebird, very mottled breast and axillary spurs, bill also quite dark.
Christmas Frigatebird - 4th year male
All that 'ageing' and identification aside, I was really there just to enjoy the sight of these magnificent looking creatures. It was simply fun to watch these pirates of seabirds bickering, fighting and chasing each other around. The Christmas Frigatebirds were obviously the boss around here, and they made sure to use their size to their advantage against the smaller Lesser Frigatebirds. After over an hour enjoying fabulous views of the Frigatebirds we were ready to head back to shore.
Christmas Frigatebird & Lesser Frigatebird - size does matter in a fight!
A young Christmas Frigatebird terrorising it's neighbours...
Male Christmas Frigatebird fighting for perches
And some closeup shots...
Before we head back to the airport, Boas promised me one last endemic, the Javan Plover. This is another species endemic to Indonesia, although quite widespread within the country it is believed to have quite a small population size, hence it's been listed as near threatened. Our cars went past a few fishponds and we slowed down to scan the area, quite soon we saw a pair inflight, while further ahead we got good views of a single adult along the shore of the fishpond. It resembles a Kentish Plover but with lighter colour legs and legs are in general longer.
Javan Plover - adult
A few Javan Plover chicks were found further on, they were still cute and fluffy, and what could be better to end our trip to West Java with this endemic! We headed to the airport with time to spare, before that we even spent time writing in Boas's guestbook. We were back in Hong Kong by 8pm.
Javan Plover - chick
Yuen filling out the guestbook (photo credit to Henry Lui)
Overall, I would say my experiences in West Java had exceeded all my expectations, huge thanks to Boas and his team for their expert guidance and help along the way, without them we would not have been able to camp out at Gunung Gede and get around with such ease, nor would we be able to locate so many great birds! We totalled 94 species with 38 endemics, of the 94 species 46 were lifers!
Although our experiences were excellent, I could not but help to feel a slight sad note leaving the country, to think of all the potential it has to be an even better ecotourism location than it is now. The current trend of things does not look well for wild birds or wildlife of Indonesia, and Java being one of the most populated island is of course no exception. We went past bird shops with literally EVERYTHING for sale, including Long-tailed Shrikes and Tree Sparrows, needless to say all the rare endemic species as well...The wild birds we encountered at Gunung Gede were not particularly afraid of people, while this is good news for birders I have slightly mixed feelings about this, they are such easy target for bird trappers! And I didn't notice any actions taken by the authorities. In fact, it's probably up to people like Boas and his team to stop any bird trapping in action if they do see them, and they told us stories of them chasing poachers away when they see them...
Compare to a place of similar habitat such as Mt. Kinabalu in Sabah, while the bird species count was no less, the total individual bird count was way below average. There were far fewer birds in general, in the city and urban areas the affects were even more apparent. While we saw tons of Javan Mynas in Sabah where it had been introduced, I personally saw none during my whole trip on Java where they were originally from.
Although reality seems grim, I do believe with better public education things can improve, and local naturalists like Boas can be key to introduce these unique natural wonders that belongs to Indonesians, and not in cages, but in the wild. I truly hope that in ten or twenty years time when I might return again to Gunung Gede that these amazing birds can still be around for all to see.
Trip List:
| Species | Date | Location | Notes |
| 1 | Chestnut-bellied Partridge (E) | 03/08/2018 | G. Gede, Camp 1 & 2 | Seen well at both camp sites |
| 2 | Milky Stork | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta | Single bird seen in flight along motorway |
| 3 | Lesser Frigatebird | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta Bay | A few at Jakarta Bay roost |
| 4 | Great Frigatebird | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta Bay | up to 50 at Jakarta Bay roost |
| 5 | Christmas Island Frigatebird | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta Bay | One male at Jakarta Bay roost |
| 6 | Little Black Cormorant | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta Bay | Common around Jakarta Bay |
| 7 | Purple Heron | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta | One observed by Captain |
| 8 | Little Egret | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta Bay | Common around Jakarta Bay |
| 9 | Cattle Egret | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta | A few observed near airport |
| 10 | Javan Pond Heron | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta | One observed near airport by Yuen |
| 11 | Black-crowned Night Heron | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta | One observed near airport |
| 12 | Crested Honey-Buzzard (ptilorhynchus) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede, Waterfall Trail | One bird circled above forest |
| 13 | Crested Serpent Eagle (bido) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede, Waterfall Trail | A few birds observed, calls different to race in Hong Kong, much shorter |
| 14 | Javan Plover (E) | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta | A few observed at fish ponds near Jakarta, up to three chicks |
| 15 | Javan Woodcock (E) | 03/08/2018 | G. Gede, before Camp 2 | One bird observed early morning below camp 2 |
| 16 | Great Crested Tern | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta Bay | A few observed at Jakarta Bay |
| 17 | Rock Dove | 01/08/2018 | Jakarta | |
| 18 | Spotted Dove | 01/08/2018 | Jakarta, Cibodas Botanical Garden | |
| 19 | Zebra Dove | 01/08/2018 | Jakarta | |
| 20 | Pink-necked Green Pigeon | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta | |
| 21 | Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon | 04/08/2018 | Cibodas Botanical Garden | One bird at Cibodas Botanical Garden |
| 22 | Pink-headed Fruit-Dove (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Endemic to Indonesia, a few along trail, male seen well |
| 23 | Chestnut-breasted Malkoha | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede, Cibodas Botanical Garden | Regularly seen at lower elevation, one seen well at Cibodas Botanical Garden |
| 24 | Rusty-breasted Cuckoo | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede, Cibodas Botanical Garden | Commonly heard at lower elevation, pair seen well at botanical garden |
| 25 | Sunda Cuckoo | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | One single bird observed at Gede |
| 26 | Javan Scops Owl (E) | 02/08/2018 | Camp 1 | Heard at night |
| 27 | Javan Frogmouth (E) | 04/08/2018 | Cibodas Botanical Garden | Many heard at botanical garden, but could not locate |
| 28 | Salvadori's Nightjar (E) | 03/08/2018 | Cibodas Botanical Garden | One seen circling above |
| 29 | Waterfall (Giant) Swiftlet | 03/08/2018 | Waterfall | A few at waterfall |
| 30 | Cave Swiftlet | 01/08/2018 | Widespread | |
| 31 | Edible-nest Swiftlet | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta Bay | One observed while out at Jakarta Bay |
| 32 | Javan Trogon (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | One male observed below camp 1, seen very well |
| 33 | Javan Kingfisher (E) | 03/08/2018 | Cibodas Golf Course | One at golf course, two at hotel |
| 34 | Collared Kingfisher | 03/08/2018 | Cibodas Botanical Garden | Heard at Cibodas Botanical Garden |
| 35 | Fire-tufted Barbet | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Regularly heard and seen along trail |
| 36 | Flame-fronted Barbet (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede, Cibodas Botanical Garden | Commonly heard, seen well along trail and at botanical garden |
| 37 | Brown-throated Barbet (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | One obscured view along trail |
| 38 | Crimson-winged Woodpecker | 03/08/2018 | G. Gede | One in mixed flock |
| 39 | Javan Yellownape (E) | 03/08/2018 | G. Gede | A pair seen well |
| 40 | Spotted Kestrel (microbalius) | 04/08/2018 | Cibodas Botanical Garden | One seen drifting past |
| 41 | Yellow-throated Hanging-Parrot (E) | 04/08/2018 | Cibodas Botanical Garden | A few observed at fruiting ficus tree |
| 42 | Banded Broadbill | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | One seen well, a few heard |
| 43 | Javan Banded Pitta (E) | 04/08/2018 | Cibodas Botanical Garden | One seen well, another heard in the same area |
| 44 | Golden-bellied Gerygone | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta | heard |
| 45 | Black-winged Flycatcher-shrike | 04/08/2018 | Cibodas Botanical Garden | |
| 46 | White-breasted Woodswallow | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta Airport | A few observed at gate |
| 47 | Sunda Minivet (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Large flocks of up to 40 - 50 birds |
| 48 | Javan Cuckooshrike (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Pairs observed in mixed flock |
| 49 | Lesser Cuckooshrike | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | one bird seen briefly |
| 50 | Pied Shrike-Babbler (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Regularly in mixed flock |
| 51 | Trilling Shrike-Babbler (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Regularly in mixed flock |
| 52 | Ashy Drongo | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede, Cibodas Botanical Garden | A few in mixed flock along trail and a few in botanical garden |
| 53 | Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Regularly in mixed flock |
| 54 | Rufous-tailed Fantail (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Regularly in mixed flock |
| 55 | Pacific Swallow | 01/08/2018 | Widespread | |
| 56 | Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher | 03/08/2018 | G. Gede | A few observed lower down |
| 57 | Cinerous Tit | 03/08/2018 | Cibodas Botanical Garden | |
| 58 | Pygmy Tit (E) | 04/08/2018 | Cibodas Botanical Garden | Few flocks observed |
| 59 | Blue Nuthatch (nigriventer) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Quite common in mixed flocks |
| 60 | Sooty-headed Bulbul | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta Airport | A few at gate |
| 61 | Orange-spotted Bulbul (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede, Cibodas Botanical Garden | Common in open areas |
| 62 | Pygmy Wren-Babbler (rufa) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Heard and seen regularly along trail |
| 63 | Eyebrowed Wren-Babbler | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | A few observed at waterfall trail |
| 64 | Javan Tesia (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Heard and seen regularly along trail |
| 65 | Mountain Tailorbird | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | |
| 66 | Sunda Bush Warbler | 03/08/2018 | G. Gede, Camp 2 | One bird observed at Camp 2 |
| 67 | Mountain Leaf Warbler | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Heard and seen regularly along trail |
| 68 | Sunda Warbler (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Heard and seen regularly along trail |
| 69 | Olive-backed Tailorbird (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede, Cibodas Golf Course | One bird heard at Gede, another seen at Cibodas Golf Course |
| 70 | Javan Grey-throated White-eye (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede, Cibodas Botanical Garden | Common in mixed flock |
| 71 | Oriental White-eye (buxtoni) | 02/08/2018 | Cibodas Botanical Garden | Common at lower elevation |
| 72 | Crescent-chested Babbler (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | A few observed in mixed flocks, also heard |
| 73 | Horsfield's Babbler | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Heard regularly |
| 74 | Javan Fulvetta (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Common in mixed flock |
| 75 | Rufous-fronted Laughingthrush (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Heard once along trail, but far |
| 76 | Spotted Crocias (E) | 03/08/2018 | G. Gede | Heard a few times, seen once below camp 1 |
| 77 | Indigo Flycatcher | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | |
| 78 | Lesser Shortwing | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Heard and seen regularly along trail |
| 79 | Javan Shortwing (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Common at higher elevation, from camp 1 onwards |
| 80 | Javan Whistling Thrush (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Common along trail |
| 81 | White-crowned Forktail | 04/08/2018 | Cibodas Botanical Garden | Pair observed at botanical garden |
| 82 | Sunda Forktail (E) | 02/08/2018 | Zuri hotel | Single bird seen early morning at hotel |
| 83 | Snowy-browed Flycatcher (vulcani) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede | Common along trail |
| 84 | Little Pied Flycatcher (hasselti) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede, Cibodas Botanical Garden | Common |
| 85 | Horsfield's Thrush (E) | 03/08/2018 | G. Gede, Camp 2 | A few seen around Camp 2 |
| 86 | Javan Cochoa (E) | 03/08/2018 | G. Gede, Camp 2 | A pair seen at Camp 2, good views |
| 87 | Blood-breasted Flowerpecker (E) | 04/08/2018 | Cibodas Botanical Garden | A few seen at Cibodas Botanical Garden |
| 88 | Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker (E) | 05/08/2018 | Jakarta | Heard around Jakarta, seen by Yuen |
| 89 | White-flanked Sunbird (E) | 03/08/2018 | G. Gede | Common along trail |
| 90 | Grey Wagtail | 03/08/2018 | Waterfall | One observed at waterfall |
| 91 | Eurasian Tree Sparrow | 01/08/2018 | Widespread | |
| 92 | Tawny-breasted Parrotfinch | 03/08/2018 | G. Gede, Camp 2 | One observed foraging at Camp 2 |
| 93 | Javan Munia (E) | 02/08/2018 | G. Gede, Cibodas Botanical Garden | Common |
| 94 | Scaly-breasted Munia | 04/08/2018 | Cibodas Golf Course | |
